Getting Started Using BioDiesel

Have a look. Did these guys miss some important ideas??

Getting Started Making Biodiesel
Posted by hmtipol on 30th June 2007

by Graydon Blair of Utah Biodiesel Supply INTRODUCTION
In this article we’ll detail some of the general items you’ll need to obtain to get started making biodiesel in a home-brewing environment. Before reading through this article I highly recommend our Biodiesel Production Basics article that gives a good overview of how biodiesel is made and used. With that basic understanding you’ll be ready to start brewing Biodiesel. Below are some simple steps you can take to get yourself ready to brew biodiesel and start saving money.
Step 1 - Locate An Oil Source
Before you can make biodiesel, you’ll need to find a good source of oil to make your biodiesel from. The most common place people get waste vegetable oil is from local restaraunts in the communities where they live. Several restaraunts use grease fryers to cook the food they sell to the public. Over time the grease deteriorates and has to be replaced. Higher quality restaraunts tend to change their fryers on a fairly frequent basis while fast food restaraunts may let it go a little longer.
I recommend finding a restaraunt that changes their fryer oil at least once a week or more often. The more they change the oil, the better quality the waste oil will be which will translate into more biodiesel for you.
Another thing you’ll want to look for is oil that is made from vegetable oil instead of from animal fat, lard, or tallows. While fats and tallows can be made into biodiesel, the gel point of these oils is much higher than vegetable based oils. Because the gel point is so high, biodiesel made from such oils will often gel at a much higher temperature causing clogging problems. Look for Soy Bean, Canola, Peanut, Corn, or other vegetable bases to the oil and you’ll be set. If you’re unsure about what the oil is made from, just ask to see the original container that the oil came in.
Step 2 - Obtain The Proper Equipment
Like all good hobbies, doing them right requires getting the proper equipment. Making biodiesel is no different. With the proper equipment, biodiesel is much easier to produce. Below is a list of the things I believe any serious biodieseler should obtain before getting started.

Equipment Listing

1 Oil Collection Containers
These can be 55 gallon steel drums to small water jugs called carboys. Typically, you’ll provide the collection containers to the restaraunt.
2 Oil Transfer Capability
You’ll either need to be able to transfer the oil collection container directly or transfer the oil from the container into a portable container that you can travel with. A pickup truck is also helpful but not necessary. Just as long as you have a means to transfer the oil from the collection area to the area where you’ll be making your biodiesel, you’ll be fine. Many people use a barrel pump, trash pump, or electric pump to transfer their oil with. If you choose to transfer the oil, I recommend starting with a hand-operated barrel pump and then upgrading to larger pumps as needed.
3 Oil Filtering Capability
Once you get the oil home, you’re going to need to filter it. If you’re using an Appleseed Processor design, just filter it down to where the “chunks” are gone from it. A filter with holes the size of a common window screen will do great. You can filter the oil down further using finer filters, but it’s not necessary when using a common Water Heater Based Biodiesel Processor. Many people have used window screens available from a home store (think Home Depot or Lowes) draped over a barrel. There are also commercially available filters that fit right over the top of a 55 gallon drum and make filtering oil a breeze. Be sure to have both a “collection” tank and a “filtered oil” tank. The collection tank would be where you’d store your oil that you’ve just picked up. The filtered oil tank will be to collect oil that has been filtered and is ready to be processed.
4 A Biodiesel Processor
To process the oil into biodiesel, you’re going to need a reactor. Biodiesel processors come in many different shapes, sizes, configurations, and materials. Essentially, any processor is just a big heater and a mixer. It needs to be able to heat the oil to about 130° F safely. It also needs to have the ability to mix the oil and the chemicals thoroughly together. When you look for a processor look for one that can do both of these tasks in a safe and fairly easy manner. I’ve used several styles of biodiesel processors but have found that processors made from an electric water heater and a simple pump seem to be the cheapest and easiest method to get started with.

A good processor will have the ability to transfer filtered oil into the reaction vessel, be able to heat it to a consistent level, have the ability to mix in chemicals in a metered fashion, and then have the ability to drain off the glycerin that will be produced.
5 A Biodiesel Washing Vessel
After you produce biodiesel it’s necessary to wash it to remove any excess material. A good wash tank will have the ability to mist wash and bubble wash biodiesel in an effective manner. I really like using Stand-Pipe Biodiesel Wash Tanks made from semi-transparent poly barrels mounted on a wooden stand. They work exceptionally well and are relatively inexpensive to build.
6 A Biodiesel Storage Container
Once you’ve produced and washed your biodiesel, you’ll need something to put it in until it’s used. The most common storage containers for completed biodiesel are 55 gallon steel or poly drums placed on drum dolly’s. This makes a great portable method for moving fuel around to a vehicle when it’s needed.

You can also store the biodiesel in large water jugs (called carboys) or even in gas cans. Just be sure you have the ability to seal whatever you put your complted biodiesel in so that dirt or debris don’t fall into it.
7 Transfer Pumps
Making biodiesel will involve a lot of transferring liquids around from one place to the other. This can be done using several hoses and gravity or you can use transfer pumps to help out. Transfer pumps come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, configurations, and layouts. I’ve seen anything from a simple hand-operated barrel pump to elaborate powered models. If you’re making lot’s of biodiesel, a powered pump can really come in handy.

Here’s a listing of the pumps you’ll need.
- Oil Collection & Transfer Pump
  Can be used to transfer waste oil, filtered oil, and to fill the processor with oil.
  Barrel, Electric, Pneumatic, or Trash pumps work well.
  If electric, be sure it’s rated to handle thick oil.
- Methanol Pump
  Should ONLY be used to transfer Methanol.
  Siphon or Barrel pumps work well.
  EPDM, Buna, or Teflon seals are recommended.
  Viton seals aren’t recommended.
- Biodiesel Pump
  Can be used to transfer completed biodiesel to and from containers
  Electric, Barrel, Siphon, Pneumatic, or any fuel transfer pump will work well.
  Viton or Teflon (PTFE) seals are recommended.
8 Titration Kit
Titration kits are needed to identify how much Lye (Sodium Hydroxide - NaOH) or Caustic Potash (Potassium Hydroxide-KOH) you’ll be using to make each batch of biodiesel. There a lot of complex information out there on the internet, but titrations are really quite simple to do and don’t really require too much effort.

Every titration kit should have at minimum the following items:
(1) Scale capable of weighing down to a gram
(1) Container capable of measuring in 10 ml increments up to at least 50 ml
(3) Containers capable of holding 50 ml of fluid
(3) Syringes or Eyedroppers graduated in 1 ml increments
(1) Container capable of holding 1 liter of fluid–preferrably sealable
Ph Indicator Can be Phenol Red, Phenolphthalein, or Tumeric
- Electric Ph Meters are not recommended
Isopropyl Alcohol About 1 pint. Preferrably 92% or higher
Lye or Caustic Potash - About 5-10 grams. Preferrably 95% pure or better.

Step 3 - Obtain Methanol & Chemicals
Methanol is used in Biodiesel Production as part of the chemical reaction. When used, the Methanol reacts with the Waste Vegetable Oil to make Biodiesel, Soap, and Glycerin. You’ll also need to obtain either Sodium Hydroxide or Potassium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide is commonly called Lye and can be found at most chemical stores and occasionally even in plumbing stores. Potassium Hydroxide is a little harder to find, but is well worth the effort.
Either one of these chemicals, when used to make biodiesel, will act as a catalyst to get the chemical reaction going between the Methanol and the Oil. It kick starts the conversion and get’s the reaction to occur. When purchasing either one of these chemicals, be sure to find chemicals that are as pure as possible. I recommend getting Sodium Hydroxide that is at least 95% pure. If Potassium Hydroxide is used, try to find it in at least 98% purity.
My personal favorite catalyst to use is Potassium Hydroxide (KOH). It dissolves easier in Methanol, makes runnier Glycerin, and when everything’s done, it doesn’t clog the plumbing on processors like Sodium Hydroxide can. It will usually cost a little more to use, but the extra cost is worth it.
Once you have all of the items above in place you’re ready to start brewing! Time for the next page! Click Here to see the basic principles behind how biodiesel is made.
Happy Brewing!

Posted in BioDiesel | Production | No Comments »

The Basics Of Biodiesel Production
Posted by hmtipol on 30th June 2007

by Graydon Blair of Utah Biodiesel Supply INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the wonderful world of making Biodiesel. It’s a fun and rewarding hobby where you can make your own fuel to run in diesel engines for a fraction of what regular diesel costs. In fact, most people making biodiesel themselves are making it for about $0.60 to $0.90 a gallon!. So if you’re ready to have some fun while saving a lot of money on fuel bills, then read on.
PRODUCTION OVERVIEW
Biodiesel is most commonly made by chemically altering an organic oil through the use of a catalyst and an alcohol. The chemical reaction that occurs through this process breaks down the oil molecules and replaces the glycerin portion of the molecule with an alcohol molecule. The glycerin falls to the bottom and is drained off resulting in Biodiesel.
The Biodiesel is then typically washed, to remove any extra impurities and is then used as a fuel in a diesel engine without making any modifications to the engine.
Biodiesel is known chemically as a ‘fatty acid methyl ester’. Which is just a fancy way of saying it’s a product made from Methanol and an organic oil with fatty acid chains in it. It is easily made and has many benefits, including environmentally friendlier tailpipe emissions and improved engine performance.
Below is a guide to some of the things you’ll need to know to get started.

PRECAUTIONS
1- When making Biodiesel, it’s important to be safe. Because you are dealing with toxic chemicals, the potential to seriously hurt, injure, and even kill yourself and others exists. This site and its contributors will not be held responsible for any injury, death, or destruction of property that occurs while attempting to make Biodiesel.
BE SAFE WHEN MAKING BIODIESEL.

2- You’ll be dealing with some fairly caustic chemicals, an alcohol called Methanol, fair amounts of heat, and the transferring of flammable fluids from one container to container so it’s a good idea to have a fire extinguisher around that is capable of putting out an oil based fire.
3- Biodiesel should always be made in a well-ventilated area away from children and pets with the proper safety equipment utilized.
4- Before making large batches of Biodiesel, check with your local municipality and fire marshall to ensure that any chemicals, alcohol, or other substances you will use are being stored and used within the proper laws and ordinances for your area. Some area’s refer back to state and federal fire codes. It’s always a good idea to check before you get started.
Click Here for some helpful tips on working with your local municipality & fire department
5- Using home made Biodiesel in a diesel engine vehicle may void your manufacturer’s warranty. Although the steps outlined to make it are fairly bullet proof and have been tested in several thousands of vehicles all over the world, there’s no guarantee your engine manufacturer will honor your warranty.
6- Biodiesel is considered a fuel so if you plan to use it in a vehicle for on-road use, it may be subject to taxes. Check with your state and federal taxing agencies if in question.
7- Biodiesel itself, when properly made, is actually quite safe. It’s less toxic than table salt and degrades faster than sugar. It has a higher flash point (point at which it ignites) than regular petrodiesel and if spilled isn’t considered toxic.

HOW IT’S MADE
Biodiesel is actually very simple to make. It is made by chemically altering the molecular structure of any organic oil through the use of a chemical catalyst and an alcohol.

To do this, oil is simply heated to a designated temperature (to help with the chemical reaction) and then a mixture of catalyst and an alcohol are added to the oil. The oil, catalyst, and alcohol mixture are then mixed for a period of time and then allowed to settle. If successful, the chemical reaction between the oil, alcohol, and the catalyst will have broken down the oil into several layers. The top layer will be biodiesel, chemically called an Ester, the next layer may contain soap, and the bottom layer will be glycerin.
Once the layering has occured, the glycerin and soap are drained off. The biodiesel is then washed with either a mist-wash, a bubble-wash, or both. The washing is done to remove any additional soap, alcohol, or other impurities in the biodiesel.
After it’s been washed, it is then dried to remove any water. Commonly it is then filtered through fuel filters and is then ready to be used.
Click Here for a basic graphical view of how it’s made.

TIMING
Biodiesel typically takes a couple of days to a week from start to finish to make a batch. Most people making biodiesel make anywhere between 20 to 100 gallons at a time in a batch process.

Here’s a breakdown of typical timing intervals from start to finish:

START
Collecting Oil - 1-2 hours
Filtering Oil - 1-2 hours (depends on amount of oil)
Titration Of Oil - 10-15 minutes
Transferring Oil To Processor - 10-20 minutes
Heating Oil - 1-4 hours (depends on amount of oil, voltage & wattage of element)
Making Methoxide - 5-20 minutes (depends on amount of methanol and catalyst used)
Mixing Methoxide Into Oil - 20-30 minutes
Mixing Oil & Methoxide - 2-3 hours
Settling Oil - 8-10 hours (usually overnight)
Draining Glycerin - 5-10 minutes
Transferring Biodiesel To Wash Tank - 10-20 minutes
First Mist Wash - 2-3 hours
Second Mist Wash - 2-3 hours
First Bubble Wash - 6-8 hours (usually overnight)
Second Bubble Wash - 6-8 hours (usually overnight)
Transferring Biodiesel To Drying Containers - 10-20 minutes (depends on amount)
Drying Biodiesel - 2 hours to 1 week (depends heavily on weather and amount made)
Transferring To Storage Containers - 10-20 minutes (depends on amount)
FINISH

EQUIPMENT
Biodiesel can be made in anything from a small 2 liter pop bottle to an elaborate processor complete with separate tanks for processing, washing, methoxide mixing, settling, and filtering.

Obtaining equipment is relatively easy. Complete processing equipment can be custom made using plans off of the web or by buying pre-made kits ready to assemble.
Most people get started by making small batches with minimal equipment and then gradually move up to making large batches using large processors built specifically for making biodiesel.
Click Here for a simple method for making a small batch.
Many homebrewers either buy a variety of premade processors designed for processing biodiesel or custom make their own processors either from kits or from plans on the web.
Professionally built processors can cost as little as $500 to several thousands of dollars. Kits can be purchased for making your own from several online retailers for as little as $200 on up to elaborate systems complete with methanol recovery condensors.
Most commonly, homebrewers build their own processors using plans from the web. Building a processor can be done in an afternoon in a garage. In fact, most folks have their processors built and ready to process biodiesel within a few hours of starting. Parts are relatively cheap to obtain and help is readily available through forums, workshops, and local cooperatives.
Click Here for plans on making a simple water-heater based biodiesel processor.
Additionally, most homebrewers obtain equipment, such as pumps (either manual or electric) for transferring oil, methanol, and glycerin with as well as several containers for storing oil and biodiesel in.

USING BIODIESEL
Biodiesel can easily be used in any diesel engine vehicle. Once processed, washed, and dried, biodiesel can be simply poured into the fuel tank of any diesel engine. Biodiesel can also be mixed with petrodiesel in any ratio. It easily mixes with petrodiesel and is commonly sold commercially blended with petrodiesel.

When getting started, most homebrewers typically purchase commercially made biodiesel to test in their diesels first, just to get an idea of how it reacts with their engines. From there, they may use commercially made biodiesel as a benchmark against the fuel they make, comparing their homemade biodiesel to the commercially made biodiesel.
Within minutes of biodiesel being added to the fuel tank, and especially when used in high blend ratios (50% to 100%) a noticeable difference in engine noise begins. Most report a reduction in engine noise, a smoothing of the engine, and a noticeable change in the smell of the exhaust. The longer the biodiesel is run in the engine, the better things become.
Research has been done comparing biodiesel to petrodiesel across a wide range of measurements. One of the most significant differences is the drastic reduction in tailpipe emissions biodiesel produces over petrodiesel. Reductions in hydrocarbons, carbon dioxide, and particulate matter have been significant. For many using biodiesel, these emission reductions are reason enough to use this incredible alternative fuel.
Besides better emissions, research has indicated an increase in engine longevity, a decrease in engine maintenance, and a better performing engine. Because biodiesel has solvent properties by nature, it acts as a cleaning agent on the fuel system in diesel engines. This means that it cleans things up the more it’s used.
Because of these solvent properties, some have noted that fuel lines in older diesel engines may degrade because the biodiesel breaks them down. Particularly susceptible are fuel lines made from natural rubber. Most of the susceptible fuel lines can easily be replaced with inexpensive fuel line that are biodiesel compatible. If in doubt, check with your local dealer. The lines usually degrade over time and develop small seeping leaks instead of large leaks.
Diesel engines made after 1993 and sold in the United States typically won’t have this problem as the fuel lines are already biodiesel compatible. This is because of a reduction in sulphur in diesel fuel in 1993 in the United States that necessitated manufacturer’s needing to change the fuel lines with non-rubber lines.
Homebrewers use biodiesel in varying blends but most commonly it’s used in blends between 20% to 100% with 100% being the preferred method when weather allows. When the weather drops below 50° F, it’s recommended to blend biodiesel with petrodiesel or add anti-gel additives to prevent biodiesel from gelling.
Another thing most biodieselers do when getting started is to change their fuel filters before using biodiesel and then change them again a few thousand miles later. This is to prevent the filters from plugging up due to biodiesel’s solvent properties. As it’s used, it may knock some of the “gunk” off of the walls of the fuel tank and fuel lines that have built up from the use of petrodiesel. Replacing the fuel filter’s is just a precaution to ensure the engines keep on running.

TAXES & REGULATIONS
Biodiesel, if used as an on-road fuel in a vehicle, may be subject to road taxes. The taxation laws are changing all the time so check with your local tax consultant to identify which taxes biodiesel may be subject to. Currently (April 2005), the first 400 gallons of homemade biodiesel is exempt from Federal excise taxes. Anything over 400 gallons is subject to the normal tax rate. You will need to check your State Tax Code for exemptions on State Excise Taxes.

It’s also important to check with your local fire marshall on fire codes for the manufacture and storage of biodiesel as well as the chemicals and alcohol used to make it. These laws and regulations are there in most cases to protect you and your neighbors. Most city officials will never have heard of biodiesel, so it may be your job to properly educate them on what it is and what you’ll be using it for. Go prepared with as much information as you can and you’ll improve your chances of receiving permission to make it.
Click Here for a great article on dealing with your local fire department.

THE BIODIESEL COMMUNITY
Luckily, there are several other people out there that have made and continue to make their own biodiesel. Most are incredibly helpful and willing to share what they’ve learned with anyone interested.

The internet has made getting help incredibly quick and easy. As always, not everything you read may be true, but for the most part those publishing web pages and sharing information via the web are willing to go the extra mile to help you out. There are several others out there that have been making it for several years and are more than happy to share with you what they have learned and help solve any problems you may run into.
Below are a few recommended places on the web where you can find helpful information about biodiesel:

Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial This site offer’s great information on helping you get started making biodiesel.
Kitchen Biodiesel Walks you through making a small batch of Biodiesel
Biodiesel Homebrew Guide The definitive guide to use for homebrewing Biodiesel.
Biodiesel Now A premier Biodiesel forum for homebrewers and commercial producers
InfoPop Biodiesel A forum especially for homebrewing Biodiesel. Has a nice global presence.
Biodiesel Basics A Yahoo group designed especially for beginners.

CONCLUSION
So, in a nutshell, biodiesel is an incredibly fun and rewarding thing to get into. With a fair amount of caution and safety, you can easily make your own fuel for your diesel powered vehicles and maybe even find a few friends along the way.

To get started, really all you need to do is: